"Back Seat" Carpet

Now that I’ve been driving the B more I’ve noticed a lot of road noise coming from the back end. Part of this I’m sure is due to the fact the exhaust is aging. That’s an upcoming project. Most of the noise however is coming from the “back seat” area. I guess you’d call this area the rear cockpit since the roadsters really don’t have a true back seat. This is where the top is stowed when it’s down. Upon closer inspection of this area I realized there really isn’t much between me and the road; just 1/8” of steel (i.e. the body). In fact, when you remove the battery cover you can see the road. Additionally, the battery cover created a wicked rattle since there was no padding between it and the metal back shelf it rested on. So I did some research and found that many other MG drivers chose to insulate and re-carpet the entire floor of the cockpit. This was my original plan. However, when I started the project I realized how great of shape the front floor carpet was in. For now, I’ll let it be. I decided to just focus on the rear or back seat area. Here’s how it went. I really think it came out great.

Cost Break Down:

4’X6’ Interior Auto Carpet (Black) $13.00
4’X50’ Metal Duct Heat/Sound Insulation $50.00 (probably enough for 6 MGBs or 12 Midgets)
Metal Insulation Tape $7.00
3M #90 Spray Adhesive (High Strength) $13.00
Box Cutter/Razor Blade Refill $2.00
Construction Grade General Purpose Adhesive (2 Tubes/$2 EA) $4.00
Labor 12 Hours

TOTAL: $90.00

Unfortunately I forgot to take a real "before" shot. Really it was just faded blue, dirty metal.

Step #1: Insulation
I used the 3M #90 Spray Adhesive to apply the insulation to the body. I think Moss and Victoria British carry a heat/sound inslulation with a self adhesive. But it's pricey and you don't get much. This step wasn't too difficult but it was hard on the back. Thus I reccomend if you have the know how, remove the entire top. This will give you so much more room. I spent most of the 12 hours of labor hunched over, squeezed between the seats. After you glue the insulation down, simply use a box cutter to trim. The insulation is very moldable and glues nicely. I used the metal tape on the patchwork parts to ensure everything is level. Also, since I have so much insulation, I decided to double layer it. Don't forget to cut/poke holes on around the battery access hole where the screw connectors marry up.


Step #2: Battery Cover Insulation
I pulled the battery cover off and applied only one layer of insulaton. On the body where the cover rests, I removed a 1" section of insulation around the perimeter of the battery access hole. This is so the battery cover rest flush with the insulation on the body. Then I cut out "holes" for the 5 screw connectors. I tape the perimeter of the battery access hole to keep the insulation from seperating when removing and replacing the cover.

Then I test fit the battery cover to make sure the screw connectors married up with their holes and that everything was flush. I know it's not too pretty looking right now, but keep reading.

Step #3: Remove the back wall board.

This is a 1/8" piece of board that rests against the back side of the trunk wall. It's used to hide the body with vinyl or upholstery. It was tricky to remove and not easy to do without breaking or stressing the board. Mine broke. But as you'll see below, I was able to repair and the carpet holds it together. In fact, if it wasn't in two pieces, I probably wouldn't have been able to get it back in.

Step #4: Carpeting/Insulating the back wall board. NOTE: Four hands are not always better than two.

I used a staple gun and the construction grade adhesive to apply the carpet to the back board. As you can see in this picture (below), on the curvy parts I had to cut slits so the carpet didn't bunch up. Also, I left the original brown vinly on as an extra layer to help keep this aging piece of board together. Since it's not rotting, I decided against replacing the board. You can see on the upper left part of the board where it cracked. I applied some glue and it should hold up.

Here's the board with the carpet applied. NOTE: I didn't carpet the very ends. The board ends have to slide in between a very tight spot between the wheel well and the back wall. The carpet would be too thick to get it back in there. So I just spray painted the corners black; though it doesn't really matter since you can see it once re-installed.

Then I just glued one layer of insulation the back of the back wall board.

Step #5: Cutting the floor carpet.

Fortunately I kept the old carpet pieces. I simply laid them on top of a large piece of new carpet and used them as a stencil. It's hard to see in this picture, but I left about an inch of excess on the new carpet for tucking and trimming.

Here's a picture of the new carpet (top) next to the old carpet pieces.

Step #6: Applying the floor carpet.

AFTER REMOVING THE BATTERY COVER, I laid the single new carpet piece in and started matching up corners and edges. Once I knew where my corners were, I started gluing the carpet to the insulation starting from the battery side and working my way across. Once I had the battery side glued and covered, I cut out the battery access hole. (Might want to make sure you disconnect your battery. If your box cutter blade makes contact with the terminal, you'll definately get a spark....at least that's what I've heard).

Then, just as I trimmed the insulation, I trimmed the carpet about an inch around the perimeter of the battery access hole.

Then I continued gluing the carpet all the way across.

I did one more test fit with the battery cover to ensure it fit. I had to do a little more trimming of carpet and insulation.

Once I knew the battery cover fit nicely, I applied carpet to it. I did not cut out the holes in the carpet where the screws are. I simply didn't apply glue to that area. I can still get to the screw by lifting the carpet. It looks so much better without holes in the carpet.

Next I put the back wall board back in. This was a little tricky and took some dirty talk, but she went back in.

Below are pictures of the finished product. I had quite a bit of trimming on the sides and edges, especially around the hump in middle.

Since I had quite a bit of scrap carpet, I glued some underneath the carpet pieces on the driver's side and passenger side floor boards. For some reason, the carpet pieces dont marry up.

BEFORE

AFTER