Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Monday, October 27, 2008
Here's a before shot. Not that great.
After it was stripped to the bare metal I pounded out a few small dings. There were still some unrepairable divets and dents so I decided to try my hand at bondo. Not as easy as it looks on American Hotrod!
I only applied the bondo to main part of the valance. The top pieces actually slide in between a narrow slit between the bumper and body.
After the bondo cured for about 30 mins, I used a variety of sand paper to smooth it out, starting with 40 grit and working my way down. Lots of dust, wear a mask.
After I had it smoothed out nice I hit it with two good coats of primer and let it dry overnight.
After I primed it, I hit it with two coats of flat black the two coats of gloss. I didn't use a gloss black because it doesn't apply as evenly as a flat black. Or at least that's what I've learned from building model airplanes. I find it looks better using a flat color then following through with the gloss. It also protects it longer. There are still some small divets that I couldn't see until the black was applied. So my bondo job was not as perfect as I thought after I finished sanding. I probably could've used another application of the bondo. Oh well. I plan to replace this piece with an air dam.
I let the black paint and gloss set overnight. I replaces all the rusted screws with hex head bolt and washers. This way, come time to take it off and put on the air dam, I can easliy slide in a socket wrench or an open end to get them off. Here's some "after" pics. I'm pretty happy with it. I really wanted the valance to match the bumper; to give the impression of a large front end. I think it worked.
Since I had to remove the grill grate to get to the valance and I had the paint out, I figured I'd hit with some primer and sliver metallic left over from the wheel project. It makes it pop out just a bit more behind the bumper and it was super easy. I also replaced the mouniting screws.
Monday, October 20, 2008
After a good scrubbing, I hit them with a primer coat using the left over primer from the wheel project. See that post for the details.
I replaced the orginal shifter with a slightly shorter, chrome shifter. Then I removed the old leather boot and just kept the rubber boot in place. I think it looks a bit sportier. I also polished up the chrome housing ring.
#4 Steering Wheel Re-Finish
Next, I followed with a coat of black. I learned from the rim project that the silver paint tends to peel if you try to mask it, even after letting it dry 48 hours. So I did black first, then taped off the sections I wanted to remain black.
Then I hit it with another primer coat and followed with the silver. Then I pulled the tape off and here's the final product. Also, here's a picture of the old wheel next to the newer finished wheel. I also painted the logo on the rubber horn cover to match the car.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Some "Before" Shots
Bare side walls.
I couldn't have the bare metal walls after carpeting the rest of the trunk. It just looked incomplete. Plus the wiring is kinda ugly.
Then I cut a circular piece of carpet and cut a slit in the middle to fit over the turn buckle and rest on the rim of the knockoff. This is to keep the knockoff from scratching the new paint job on the spare wheel.
Here's the final product in place. I love it!
I also hit the jack with a coat of black paint to liven it up. This jack is probably the original and therefore I don't really trust it for its intended purpose. I just wanted to keep it with trunk in an attempt to stay original. However, I decided to buy foldable T iron to store back there. So if I ever get a flat I'll be able to take the lugs off. I'll just have to lift the car with brute strength.