Mike's 76 MGB

2008-11-18T11:29:00.000-08:00

Just a quick post. Met another fellow MGB owner and snag these pics from his site. Thought I'd share them. Thanks Chris Divine!

Front Valance Refinish

2008-10-27T18:13:00.000-07:00

For my next trick...

So everytime I washed the B, or even looked at it, I couldn't help but notice the lower front valance and how sad it looked. It was painted the same color blue as the main body but it had faded to a light, dull blue. I figured this was another oppertunity for a cheap, easy, quick fix with big payoff. Well it was cheap and I think it paid off but it certainly wasn't easy or quick. Getting the valance off was the hardest part. It was designed to only come off after you remove the bumper. Well that wasn't a project I was ready to get into and I figured there's always a loop hole. The valance was held to the body with 8 rusted screws. There's actually a bolt welded to the body for the screw to turn into. Seems easy enough: just unscrew the screws. Not so much. The screw heads are only accessible through a 3 inch gap in between the bumper and the body. Hence, take off the bumper for free access to the valance screws. So first I tried a small palm size screw drive which barely fit down and into the screw. But the screws were so rusted together that using a screw driver with such little torque just stripped the screws. I just couldn't get a good grip on them. So I used my vise grips, hammer, and a flat head screw driver to loosen it up. Some would just not budge and I had to pound off the head of the screw. It took me all together about 4 hours to get it off. Once I did, it was pretty smooth from there on. I also removed the grill grate between the radiator and bumper and refinished it.

Here's a before shot. Not that great.

Step 1: Remove Valance/Strip Paint

After I finally got the valance off I noticed there was alot of paint chipping. Just painting over it would leave a bunch of divits from the uneven paint. So I used some paint stripping gel that I painted on there. It took several applications because I noticed after the blue was stripped, there were several other layers of paint, primer, and bondo. It was like peeling an onion. I used a spackle scraper. I had to just take it down to the bare metal so everything would be even. The stripping gel is potent and will burn your skin. Wear gloves.

After it was stripped to the bare metal I pounded out a few small dings. There were still some unrepairable divets and dents so I decided to try my hand at bondo. Not as easy as it looks on American Hotrod!

I only applied the bondo to main part of the valance. The top pieces actually slide in between a narrow slit between the bumper and body.

After the bondo cured for about 30 mins, I used a variety of sand paper to smooth it out, starting with 40 grit and working my way down. Lots of dust, wear a mask.

After I had it smoothed out nice I hit it with two good coats of primer and let it dry overnight.

After I primed it, I hit it with two coats of flat black the two coats of gloss. I didn't use a gloss black because it doesn't apply as evenly as a flat black. Or at least that's what I've learned from building model airplanes. I find it looks better using a flat color then following through with the gloss. It also protects it longer. There are still some small divets that I couldn't see until the black was applied. So my bondo job was not as perfect as I thought after I finished sanding. I probably could've used another application of the bondo. Oh well. I plan to replace this piece with an air dam.

I let the black paint and gloss set overnight. I replaces all the rusted screws with hex head bolt and washers. This way, come time to take it off and put on the air dam, I can easliy slide in a socket wrench or an open end to get them off. Here's some "after" pics. I'm pretty happy with it. I really wanted the valance to match the bumper; to give the impression of a large front end. I think it worked.

Since I had to remove the grill grate to get to the valance and I had the paint out, I figured I'd hit with some primer and sliver metallic left over from the wheel project. It makes it pop out just a bit more behind the bumper and it was super easy. I also replaced the mouniting screws.

Small Interior Projects

2008-10-20T07:16:00.000-07:00

This last weekend the weather was awesome. So I set out to give the B a nice wash and wax in preparation for the quickly invading winter. As all MG owners know, it always starts with a quick wash and wax. She did get a much needed buffing as well as some other small interior projects I had been putting off for some time. Check it out and let me know what you think. Cheers!

#1 Wash & Wax

Caiden helped me wash it then I spent most of the evening waxing. I switched from Turtle Wax to McGuire's paste wax. I'm pretty happy with it. If it's been some time since you waxed your MG and the paint is looking a bit shabby, I highy recommend McGuire's Cleaner Wax. This will actually revitalize you paint and remove any small scratches or swirls. I applied it when I first got the B from Lynn. I suggest you only use it once as it does go deep into the paint. I also gave the top a coat of leather treatment. Here's some pics of her all pretty and ready for the prom.

#2 Remove and Paint the Running Boards

I pulled these off with the intention of just scrubbing them down and removing all the dirt, surface rust, and grime stuck in all the grooves. But after several washes and scrubbings, they still looked pretty bad. I'll probably replace these through Victoria British. I believe they cost around $50. But since I had paint left over from the wheel project I figured I couldn't do much harm to them by throwing a coat of silver on. I think it paid off and it looks some much better, especially in person.

Some "before" shots. Since the old screws were rusted on and stripped, I had to use a small flat head and hammer to break them off.

What it looked like underneath. I gave this a good scrubbing, light sanding on the surface rust, and good waxing.

After a good scrubbing, I hit them with a primer coat using the left over primer from the wheel project. See that post for the details.

Next, I put on the same silver paint left over from the wheel project.

Finally, I hit it with some clear coat for extra protection. I replaced all the screws with #8 3/4" self tapping screws. ($8.00 at Lowes)

Some "after" pics.

#3 Misc Projects

These were really quick projects that I didn't get "before" shots of.

I pulled the ash try, primed and repainted it black. It was pretty scratched up. I also repaired the arm rest which has been missing since I got the car.

I cut some left over carpet (from the trunk project) and tucked it under the dash to conceal all the wiring. There is a plastic bottom dash piece you can buy from VB. I think it runs around $80. This picture isn't that good. I used velcro to secure it under the dash. This way I can still easily get to my wiring.

I replaced the orginal shifter with a slightly shorter, chrome shifter. Then I removed the old leather boot and just kept the rubber boot in place. I think it looks a bit sportier. I also polished up the chrome housing ring.

Even the garage got a small make-over.

#4 Steering Wheel Re-Finish

I've had a replacement steering wheel I bought off eBay for $11.00 that I've been meaning to put on. The leather wrap on the original wheel was peeling and got pretty bad. So since I spent so little on this new (but used) steering wheel, I thought I'd play around and try out a "Rostyle" finish like the rims. I think it came out pretty cool. All the paint I used was left over from the rim project.

"Before" shot. The spokes were a bit scuffed.

I wrapped the leather in plastic to protect from overspray the I hit with a coat of primer.
Next, I followed with a coat of black. I learned from the rim project that the silver paint tends to peel if you try to mask it, even after letting it dry 48 hours. So I did black first, then taped off the sections I wanted to remain black.

Then I hit it with another primer coat and followed with the silver. Then I pulled the tape off and here's the final product. Also, here's a picture of the old wheel next to the newer finished wheel. I also painted the logo on the rubber horn cover to match the car.

Trunk Carpet

2008-06-10T07:17:00.001-07:00

Finally! I finished the trunk carpet project! I started this back in March or April and got somewhat side tracked. But I regained some momentum and buckled down to a nice finish. Like all my projects for this car, I'm very satisfied with the final outcome. Check it out!

Some "Before" Shots

Step 1: Line with a moisture lock flashing

I used a Moistop flashing I picked up a Lowes for pretty cheap. This is what they "wrap" new homes with before applying siding. I'm hoping it will stop any more corrosion and rust. It's not pretty looking but I'm confident it was worth the money and effort. I used the same 3M spray adhesive I used on the back seat carpet project to adhere it to the bare metal floor. It was quite messy but effective.

Step 2: Line with sound/heat insulation.

Like the back seat project, I wanted to ease some of the road noise I get from the back end. So I used more of the heating duct insulation. I had plenty left over. I used the 3M spray again to get it to stick. I left the side walls bare so I could still have access to my rear lighting wiring.

After all the insluation is laid it's ready for carpet.

Step 3: Lay the carpet.

I used the Victoria British trunk carpet kit (see my parts list for p/n). After it's all said and done, I don't recommend using it. Though it's sewn to fit my trunk it is by no means a peferct match. As you can see I had to do a lot of trimming. Also, the kit doesn't come with carpet to cover the side walls. Keep reading on and I'll explain how I got around that. So if I had to do it all over again, I'd probably stick to just buying a couple rolls of auto carpet from Checker. If you're good with a sewing machine, this is definately your best bet.

Bare side walls.

I couldn't have the bare metal walls after carpeting the rest of the trunk. It just looked incomplete. Plus the wiring is kinda ugly.

Step 4: Carpet the side walls/ cover the wiring.

As I just mentioned, the carpet kit from VB didn't provide anything for the sidewalls. This is probably so you can have easy access to your wiring. But it just looked so incomplete without it. So I bought another roll of auto carpet at Checker and just cut to fit. Instead of gluing though, I used velco so I could easily pull the carpet piece and get to my wiring. Though I really have no business messing with any wires. What I meant to say was I used velco so a MECHANIC can get to the wiring. While I was at checker I also picked up some black split loom to cover the wiring so it wasn't so obvious. Most of the wiring I was able to stow behind the carpet panels.

Step 5: Spare tire hold down.

After spending all that time refinishing my Rostyles and carpeting the trunk I didn't want to use this ugly piece of hardware to secure my spare to the trunk floor. So I came up with a better idea: use a early MG style wheel knock off. First I broke loose the top plate and strip of metal on the original hold down so that all I had was a 8" bolt threaded on each side.

Then I bought a 3/8" turn buckle (to fit the bolt) at Lowes and cut it in half. Then I JB Welded it to the inside of a new knock off from VB. Then I just screwed in the bolt to the turnbuckle. The turnbuckle allows me to adjust the length of the bolt to fit any lenght from 7" to 8 1/2". It also allows me to adjust the length of the bolt so the knockoff rests level when securing the wheel.

Then I cut a circular piece of carpet and cut a slit in the middle to fit over the turn buckle and rest on the rim of the knockoff. This is to keep the knockoff from scratching the new paint job on the spare wheel.

Top of my new spare wheel hold down. It's alot prettier than the bottom huh?

Here's the final product in place. I love it!

I also hit the jack with a coat of black paint to liven it up. This jack is probably the original and therefore I don't really trust it for its intended purpose. I just wanted to keep it with trunk in an attempt to stay original. However, I decided to buy foldable T iron to store back there. So if I ever get a flat I'll be able to take the lugs off. I'll just have to lift the car with brute strength.

Then final "After" product.

Thought the VB trunk carpet kit didn't come with side wall carpet pieces, it did come with this spare tire cover. I had this patch I bought some time back I had originally planned to sew on a jacket. But instead I sewed it on the cover. I don't like that you can't see my sharp knockoff hold down though. Your thoughts? With or without the carpet cover?

Part Lists/Cost Breakdown

Moistop Flashing 6" x 500' roll $40.00

3M #90 Spray Adhesive (High Strength) $13.00

4' X 50" Metal Duct Heat/Sound insulation (left over from the back seat project) $50.00

Victoria British Trunk Carpet Kit Black 16-450-BL $89.95

Construction Grade General Purpose Adhesive (2 tubes $2EA) $4.00

Black 1/4" Split Loom $4.99

Black 1/2" Split Loom $4.99

Black 3/4" Split Loom $4.99

Victoria British Wheel Knock Off RH 9-086 $44.95

3/8" turnbuckle $1.99

Foldable T-Iron $11.99

Velcro 2" X 8' $8.95

TOTAL: $229.80

Labor: 20 hours

What the trunk!

2008-03-21T12:53:00.000-07:00

This is just a quick snippet on an experience I had yesterday with the trunk. My next project is to weather seal, insulate, and carpet the trunk. So my new trunk seals came in yesterday and I promptly installed one on the body and one on the lid. Makes sense right? So after the new pretty seals are on I try to shut the truck. Attempt #1: the lid bounces back up at me. Attempt #2: same as #1. Attempt #3: SUCCESS; with quite a bit more force I might add. Happy with those results I decide to start laying the moist-stop layer to the floor of the trunk. Only one problem: the trunk won't open. Yes, it was unlocked and the latch was not engaged but still she was tightly "sealed". I tugged and tugged and nothing. I even stood on the bumper and lifted with all my might. Nothing. Turns out you're not suppose to have both seals on, just one or the other. After I slammed it shut the third time the two seals meshed together and jammed the lid tight. I had to use a screw driver inbetween the lid and the body to very carefully push the seal off. Eventually the lid popped open. Lesson learned.

"Back Seat" Carpet

2008-03-19T06:53:00.000-07:00

Now that I’ve been driving the B more I’ve noticed a lot of road noise coming from the back end. Part of this I’m sure is due to the fact the exhaust is aging. That’s an upcoming project. Most of the noise however is coming from the “back seat” area. I guess you’d call this area the rear cockpit since the roadsters really don’t have a true back seat. This is where the top is stowed when it’s down. Upon closer inspection of this area I realized there really isn’t much between me and the road; just 1/8” of steel (i.e. the body). In fact, when you remove the battery cover you can see the road. Additionally, the battery cover created a wicked rattle since there was no padding between it and the metal back shelf it rested on. So I did some research and found that many other MG drivers chose to insulate and re-carpet the entire floor of the cockpit. This was my original plan. However, when I started the project I realized how great of shape the front floor carpet was in. For now, I’ll let it be. I decided to just focus on the rear or back seat area. Here’s how it went. I really think it came out great.

Cost Break Down:

4’X6’ Interior Auto Carpet (Black) $13.00
4’X50’ Metal Duct Heat/Sound Insulation $50.00 (probably enough for 6 MGBs or 12 Midgets)
Metal Insulation Tape $7.00
3M #90 Spray Adhesive (High Strength) $13.00
Box Cutter/Razor Blade Refill $2.00
Construction Grade General Purpose Adhesive (2 Tubes/$2 EA) $4.00
Labor 12 Hours

TOTAL: $90.00

Unfortunately I forgot to take a real "before" shot. Really it was just faded blue, dirty metal.

Step #1: Insulation
I used the 3M #90 Spray Adhesive to apply the insulation to the body. I think Moss and Victoria British carry a heat/sound inslulation with a self adhesive. But it's pricey and you don't get much. This step wasn't too difficult but it was hard on the back. Thus I reccomend if you have the know how, remove the entire top. This will give you so much more room. I spent most of the 12 hours of labor hunched over, squeezed between the seats. After you glue the insulation down, simply use a box cutter to trim. The insulation is very moldable and glues nicely. I used the metal tape on the patchwork parts to ensure everything is level. Also, since I have so much insulation, I decided to double layer it. Don't forget to cut/poke holes on around the battery access hole where the screw connectors marry up.

Step #2: Battery Cover Insulation
I pulled the battery cover off and applied only one layer of insulaton. On the body where the cover rests, I removed a 1" section of insulation around the perimeter of the battery access hole. This is so the battery cover rest flush with the insulation on the body. Then I cut out "holes" for the 5 screw connectors. I tape the perimeter of the battery access hole to keep the insulation from seperating when removing and replacing the cover.

Then I test fit the battery cover to make sure the screw connectors married up with their holes and that everything was flush. I know it's not too pretty looking right now, but keep reading.

Step #3: Remove the back wall board.

This is a 1/8" piece of board that rests against the back side of the trunk wall. It's used to hide the body with vinyl or upholstery. It was tricky to remove and not easy to do without breaking or stressing the board. Mine broke. But as you'll see below, I was able to repair and the carpet holds it together. In fact, if it wasn't in two pieces, I probably wouldn't have been able to get it back in.

Step #4: Carpeting/Insulating the back wall board. NOTE: Four hands are not always better than two.

I used a staple gun and the construction grade adhesive to apply the carpet to the back board. As you can see in this picture (below), on the curvy parts I had to cut slits so the carpet didn't bunch up. Also, I left the original brown vinly on as an extra layer to help keep this aging piece of board together. Since it's not rotting, I decided against replacing the board. You can see on the upper left part of the board where it cracked. I applied some glue and it should hold up.

Here's the board with the carpet applied. NOTE: I didn't carpet the very ends. The board ends have to slide in between a very tight spot between the wheel well and the back wall. The carpet would be too thick to get it back in there. So I just spray painted the corners black; though it doesn't really matter since you can see it once re-installed.

Then I just glued one layer of insulation the back of the back wall board.

Step #5: Cutting the floor carpet.

Fortunately I kept the old carpet pieces. I simply laid them on top of a large piece of new carpet and used them as a stencil. It's hard to see in this picture, but I left about an inch of excess on the new carpet for tucking and trimming.

Here's a picture of the new carpet (top) next to the old carpet pieces.

Step #6: Applying the floor carpet.

AFTER REMOVING THE BATTERY COVER, I laid the single new carpet piece in and started matching up corners and edges. Once I knew where my corners were, I started gluing the carpet to the insulation starting from the battery side and working my way across. Once I had the battery side glued and covered, I cut out the battery access hole. (Might want to make sure you disconnect your battery. If your box cutter blade makes contact with the terminal, you'll definately get a spark....at least that's what I've heard).

Then, just as I trimmed the insulation, I trimmed the carpet about an inch around the perimeter of the battery access hole.

Then I continued gluing the carpet all the way across.

I did one more test fit with the battery cover to ensure it fit. I had to do a little more trimming of carpet and insulation.

Once I knew the battery cover fit nicely, I applied carpet to it. I did not cut out the holes in the carpet where the screws are. I simply didn't apply glue to that area. I can still get to the screw by lifting the carpet. It looks so much better without holes in the carpet.

Next I put the back wall board back in. This was a little tricky and took some dirty talk, but she went back in.

Below are pictures of the finished product. I had quite a bit of trimming on the sides and edges, especially around the hump in middle.

Since I had quite a bit of scrap carpet, I glued some underneath the carpet pieces on the driver's side and passenger side floor boards. For some reason, the carpet pieces dont marry up.

BEFORE

AFTER

Rostyle Wheel Re-Finish

2008-03-11T07:20:00.000-07:00

There are a few aftermarket style wheels I would like to throw on. But for now I've decided to refinish the Rostyle wheels currently on the B. I looked around and I don't believe this style wheel is available anymore. So one cheap option is to paint them to the original black and silver scheme. Victoria British and Moss both sell a kit to do this but from my research I've found that most people were not happy with the stencil; that it wouldn't stay in place. So I just went to Dale's Paint Supply here in C-Springs and told the guy what I wanted to do. He recommended the Hammerite brand spray paint. You can paint right over rust (though I don't recommend it) and it's heat and weather resistant. The aluminum color is pretty dang close to the original silver. Then I just picked up some masking tape and taped everything off as opposed to using the stencil. It took longer but there was no overspray and the result is pretty awesome. See for yourself. I also strongly suggest removing the tire; though I decided against it because I'm trying to stay cheap. Most tire shops will charge about $75 to take off the tire then replace and rebalance it for you. So I just used old plastic grocery bags and taped the tire off. I've heard you can actually "paint" the tire with a cheap liquid dish soap and let it dry. Then just spray the rim. Obviously you'll get overspray on the tire but supposedly it washes right off when you apply water to the dried soap. So here's a price breakdown and how it all went:

First and foremost, I suggest you try this process on your spare first. As you’ll read on I made a few mistakes and had to re-do somethings.

Hammerite Aluminum Smooth Finish* $7.00
Hammerite Black Smooth Finish* $7.00
Pit Bull Spray Primer $3.50
Pit Bull Spray Gloss $3.50
Sand Paper $3.00
Maksing Tape $1.50
Labor 5-6 hours over the span of about a week
Wheel 14" Trim Ring Set of 4 (Stainless) $59.95 from Victoria British p/n 9-031
Lug Nut Set of 16 (Stainless) $34.95 from Victoria Bristish p/n 15-961
Total: $120.40

*These are spray paints. Be sure not to get the “hammered/crackled” finish.

Step#1: Clean & Sanding
If you opted to take the tire off, then you might as well have the wheel pressure washed or even sand blasted. Since I left the tire on, I just used a tooth brush, hot water, and a good scrub brush. I avoided any soap for fear the residue would mix with the paint and affect the finish. Once it was cleaned I used a fine sandpaper and took off any surface rust and remaining dirt and followed up with a final rinse.

Step#2: Primer
I taped off the tire and sprayed the whole rim with primer. DON’T FORGET TO TAPE OFF YOUR VALVE STEMS! The Pit Bull primer dries within minutes.

Step#3: Spray with Aluminum/Black
First I sprayed the entire primed rim aluminum. This turned out to be a mistake. Initially I taped off the silver part and sprayed over with the black. When I removed the tape it took the aluminum finish with it. And this was after it had dried nearly 48 hours. So I re-primed and did the black first, let it dry 48 hours, then taped off the black, re-primed, and finished up with the aluminum. The black didn’t stick to the tape at all and it looked great! This is why I suggest practicing on your spare.

Step#4: Taping Off
Though I did this in step 3, I felt this part of the process deserved its own step. This is the most tedious and time consuming part. I actually used and Exacto blade and trimmed the taped to perfectly mask. Its killer on the back but the result is worth it.

Step#5: Clear Coat
Once I was completely satisfied with the wheels, I followed up with two coats of a semi-gloss clear coat. Though the original Rostyles weren’t really “shiny”, they also weren’t really spray painted. The clear coat will help prevent against scratches and chips. I allowed 24 hours between clear coats.

Here’s the final product next to a rim I haven’t painted yet. Huge difference! I’m really happy with it. This process will probably have to be re-done in 2-3 years; assuming I haven’t upgraded to a different wheel by then.

My Co-Investors

2008-03-10T09:45:00.000-07:00

I just want to take this opportunity to say thanks to all involved thus far in this project. I'm big on citing my sources. I'll call these people my co-investors.

Lynn Rowley- I know you don't want to hear thank you again, but get over it. I'm putting it in writing. Thank you for thinking of me and giving me the B...and for biting the bill on the brakes! I love you!

Grandpa Beagley-Thank you for listening to all my frustrations when the oil filter kept blowing off. And thank you for answering all my stupid questions. I love being a part of the MG community and the reputation you've given the Beagley name!

My wife Stephanie- I have felt so defeated and you've always supported me! You'll look so hot in it with the top down. If this B's a rocking....I love you!

Stephen Rampleberg- You're the man! Thank you for pulling the motor to be rebuilt, for taking it apart and prepping it for rebuild, for putting her back in after rebuild, and for never giving up on fixing Burt's screw ups. I owe you dearly. Your time and experience has saved me hundreds, possibly thousands of dollars! I miss you Brother!

Dad-Like Grandpa, thanks for your advice and direction. And thanks for waxing her and treating her like you really wish you had a B and not a Midget. It's ok to feel vunerable in such a tiny car. You can borrow it when ever. I love you Pops! I honestly fear Caiden will like your Midget more.

Vic/Barb (Mom & Dad)-Thanks for your financial support, for buying me a GT, and being understanding when I decided to sell it. You'll get a set of keys to the B. It'll be a blast!

The Project

2008-03-10T09:13:00.000-07:00

This is just a quick run down of what's been done prior to establishing this blog. Don't worry, you didn't miss much. Just before the B was shipped to me in Colorado, Lynn had the brakes completely redone to include the master cylinder. She mentioned there was a power issue but was not sure of the source. I wasn't too worried because I had planned to have the motor completely rebuilt once I got it. Turns out it was only running on three cylinders. No big deal since the block and head were tested and in good shape. On with the rebuild. This is where the frustration began. I took it to Burt's Auto Supply in Colorado Springs. This was suggested by a member of the MG Car Club (RMC). Turns out it was a bad idea. I spent $1800 to have it rebuilt only to get it back in the car and sit for about 5 months. Why was it sitting you might ask? The techs at Burts accidently plugged the oil flow back gallery. This probably isn't the real name, but it's the hole/tube where the unused oil flows back into the pan. Well if the oil can't go back into the pan, where does it go? All over my garage (the birth place of creative cussing). Of course I had no idea why my oil pressue was through the roof and why my oil filter kept literally flying of the mount. I figured: must be a bad filter, or bad seal, or plugged oil cooler, or plugged line. Finally, after replacing all those things and after many phone calls to Burt's, they realized what they did and came over and drilled out and the plug. No big deal, we all make mistakes.

Finally I got to hear the sweet purring of a newly rebuilt MG motor...for about 15 mins. Then she died. A good friend of mine, Stephen (who is not getting nearly the credit he deserves in this blog. I'll cite him later), mentioned a few possible diagnosis just before he moved to South Dakota. Come back Stephen! I finally buckled and had it towed to Metric Motors in Colorado Springs. They determined that Burt's had tightened the valves too tight causing them to lock up once warmed up. They also found a seal put in backwards. Thanks Burt's. I could've duked it out with them making them fix it, but I wasn't willing to let them touch my B again. In the words of my beloved president: "fool me once, shame on you...me. Fool me twice, shame....uh....shame on uh.... How's it go Condy?"

Metric did a great job and the motor is now running great! I've driven her a few times to work and am excited to move on to other things on the B. From this point on, each step/mini-project will have it's own post with pictures. Please stay tuned and let me know what you like and most importantly what you don't like.

The B's History

2008-03-10T08:29:00.000-07:00

I can't even begin to discuss this specific MGB without first talking about my family's MG history. Let me first say my initials are MGB (Mike Grant Beagley). This is no accident. My two brothers are also MGB's. Working backwards on the family tree, my father Paul Beagley drives a beautiful 78 Midget. Parked next to it in the garage is a 47 TC. (And in case I haven't made it clear to my 4 siblings: dibs on the TC when Dad kicks it). My Grandfather, Douglass Beagley, drives/owns a long list of MGs to include a MGB V-8, MGA Twin Cam, MGB LE, MGB GT, and MGB. I believe there is a Midget rusting somewhere in his back yard too. But it's just a Midget. No big deal, right Dad?

So about this 76 B I'm working on. I had always entertained the idea of continuing the family curse, I mean tradition by picking up a decent MG. Right about that time my Aunt Lynn Rowley, (of Kirkland, WA) emailed me asking if I was interested in taking her B of her hands. I'm not sure the specifics of why she parted with it, but I certainly wasted no time in trying to talk her out of it. It took a few months to work the logistics, but I finally had it shipped to my place in Colorado in the fall of 2006. We're not quite sure who the original owner is, but my Aunt Lynn bought it from her close friend Lynn Kurland. This is the cool part of the story. Lynn Kurland is a successful published author who uses a picture (taken by my Aunt Lynn) of her in the B on the back of all her novels. That's right, it's famous and therefore so am I. This is my 15 mins.

Previous Ower Lynn Kurland (author)

in my MGB.
Thanks Lynn!